I decided, when travelling to Tanzania this year, to arrive in daytime. I figured it wouldn't do to make first landing in this new country at night, when it was so remote and exotic to me, with my life for two months in my backpack. And so I chose the later flight on December 31, celebrated the New Year somewhere over North Iraq and, after a brief stop in Doha, arrived into an entirely sunlit Dar es Salaam at two in the afternoon, the dense hot air ready to ambush me as soon as I stepped off the plane. And the welcome! As I was to learn again and again in the coming months, Tanzania is not a country that shakes you by the hand or gives a dry nod of the head, or an arid smile. It's one that g
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